Olivia Schaw, MFNZ Circular Design Awards Winner 13.09.24

Can you walk us through the process of creating a zero-waste pattern? What inspired this approach in your designs?

The process of creating a zero-waste pattern is one part trial and error, and one part Tetris. I draft on Adobe Illustrator and create an artboard that is the size of the material I am working within. I then map out the most important pattern pieces, the ones that have the least adaptability, and then fill in the gaps. The technique drives the whole design process. I knew I wanted to make a dress, and I knew I wanted an exaggerated collar, but other than that I let the design be driven by the shapes of the fabric I have to use. I have been interested in zero waste since I became aware of how much textile waste is produced before the garment is even made. As I have been exploring this approach, I have been surprised at how attainable it actually is to create well-fitting clothing that creates little to no waste. Success then breeds inspiration to do more...

Your designs repurpose old bedsheets ~ what drew you to this specific material, and how do you work with it to create something new?

I work as a fashion design tutor, so taking an educational approach; I wanted to design something that others could recreate themselves. I am an avid op-shopper and have often used second-hand bed sheets to test patterns as it's inexpensive, and uses existing materials. Over time, I started collecting really pretty vintage floral sheets. This material is one that others could source themselves and would make some unique one-of-a-kind garments, while also giving new life to existing materials. The sheets are often a simple cotton, a nice fabric to work with, and being inexpensive this takes away a barrier for beginner sewers to have a go themselves. From the beginning the intention for my entry to the circular design award was to create a garment that would be accessible for others to recreate, supporting my desire/decision to use this up-cyclable material.

What sparked your interest in sustainable fashion, and how has your journey evolved over time?

I have been interested in sustainable fashion since my study days, when I did an assignment on Kate Fletcher, and read her book ‘Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change.’ I have since researched what it actually means to be sustainable, and concluded that it means different things for different people. The reality is that it’s not one person, or one brand’s job to “be sustainable” but a collective mindset, and lifestyle change. Small steps on a big journey. For me, sustainable fashion means prolonging the life of textiles, slowing down, being more considerate, and educating myself and others. Over time I have learned to adjust my consumer habits, and it has affected my design process. I have made it a habit to question myself ‘Is what I am designing adding value to this world? Is it going to stand the test of time physically and socially? What is the lifecycle of this creation?’

What challenges have you encountered as a designer focused on sustainability, and how have you overcome them?

The biggest challenge I find is being overwhelmed. I often feel a sense of guilt around producing clothing when I also preach to buy less. This is a struggle I still face, it may be why I am so reluctant to begin selling my clothing. To combat this tension, I choose to focus on the positives, and celebrate the little wins, rather than focusing on the many and varied issues produced by overconsumption and waste. I often refer to this struggle of sustainability as a ‘journey’... Small steps in the right direction; Small steps on a big journey; The joy of the journey. This helps me put things in perspective, and enjoy the extra time and effort it takes to produce high quality in a sustainable way. It has also inspired me to take a more educational approach, now also working as a tutor and starting to plan towards producing sewing patterns of my own. This allows me to share my knowledge and passion of sustainable considerations in fashion with others.

Why do you believe circular design is so important in fashion today?

I believe circular design is what will protect the future of the fashion industry. I love fashion, and I love the feeling of adding something new to my wardrobe, and I don't want to lose that. Designing for circularity is surely how we get the best of both worlds, right? We should not be viewing clothing as disposable. Quality gives longevity. High-quality clothing we can love for multiple seasons, and when we are ready, pass it on to someone else to enjoy. It actually puts a smile on my face while writing this.

How do you see circular design changing the future of fashion, and what role do you hope to play in that change?

Circular design promotes a more considerate industry, which affects both the designers and the consumers. I see a circular fashion industry being a positive and uplifting space. Where designers are encouraged to do what they do, and to do it well; while consumers are encouraged to respect their designs and take up the responsibility to close the circle. I hope to be alongside some other amazing New Zealand designers who are also aiming for a positive circular industry. Educating whoever will listen to me, and uplifting, supporting and encouraging those who are doing the good things.

You had a mentorship with our General Manager, Emily Miller-Sharma, during the Circular Design Awards - how did that shape your approach to sustainable fashion? What were some key takeaways from that experience?

What a beautiful person Emily is. She is so bubbly, and has such a positive personality. It was, and still is, such an encouragement to have the support and acknowledgment of someone who has been there and done that. One of the most valuable aspects of the mentorship is Em’s acknowledgment of the sense of ‘overwhelm’ I had become stranded in. She provided me support and a solution that opened a way forward and re-inspired me to keep going. I will forever be grateful for her being a light of positivity and re-sparking the joy of the journey.