Toolbox / Materials
Materials
What we have learned is there is no “sustainable” material, instead there are some choices that are better than others.
Global Life Cycle data collated by World Resources Institute in November 2021 demonstrates that fashion’s biggest emissions (and other environmental impacts) are in the materials phase of the supply chain.
Every material requires the use of resources such as land, energy and water, and has an impact (both positive and negative) on the people that produce them.
The work we do to continuously improve the materials we use is a crucial part of our Toolbox for Change strategy. It is our goal to continue to make verifiably better choices, and to educate you about what we learn along the way.
The fabric production supply chain, a note...
It’s helpful to be clear about the different stages in the fabric production process we talk about in this section. There’s a lot of information in here, so please get in touch if you would like some help understanding it.
- Raw Material Production (Tier 4): The creation or collection of the raw material used to make a fabric. For example on farms, forests, plantations, recycling plants, petroleum extraction and polymerisation.
This stage may also include the processing of the raw material (for example ginning cotton, carding wool, scutching flax or extruding polyester), but may also fall under tier 3 yarn production (for example acetate and viscose, as the raw materials are processed in a factory that differs from the location of the forests where wood pulp comes from).
- Yarn Production (Tier 3): Spinning processed raw material into strands of yarn.
This may also include the processing of the raw material as mentioned above.
- Fabric Production (Tier 2): Weaving or knitting of yarn into fabric.
- Fabric Finishing (also Tier 2): Preparation for dyeing, printing, washing, drying and setting (which usually includes processes such as singeing, sizing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerising).
- Fabric Supplier (Tier 1): The seller and exporter that trades with fabric mills, wholesale markets and buyers. In most cases, we work directly with them.
In the Fabric section of our Materials Index, we list as far back as we have traced or verified for each fabric. Because of the commodity nature of some raw materials (such as cotton or polyester) and the lack of technology, we are often only able to identify the region or country the raw material has come from, we can't always trace back to the precise farm or extraction plant.

OUR PROGRESS
We have developed a Materials Index detailing fabrics, trims and packaging for our design, development and production teams. Its purpose is to educate about the benefits and drawbacks of the materials we use.
We have shared the index here so you can see what we have learned. If you are a customer, it might help you to make more informed choices when buying clothes, regardless of whether they are from RUBY or elsewhere. And if you are a fellow designer, you can use what we have learned when making decisions about what to put into production.
We currently source materials from suppliers and mills across the globe, such as China, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Mongolia, India, Portugal, France, Belgium, Italy, Turkey, Spain, and The Netherlands. We also use wholesale agents who are based in New Zealand but source from these places
We define Better Practice Materials as ones that are produced in a way that minimises or mitigates the potential negative impacts of production. Some examples of this are fabrics that are:
- Recycled
- Regenerative
- Rapidly renewable
- Able to be recycled, repurposed or composted
- Dyed or treated using safe chemicals
- Organic
- Made from by-product materials
- Traceable back to the farm or raw material
- Produced keeping water & chemicals in a closed-loop, ensuring they are not polluting local ecosystems
- Produced using renewable energy, or using energy efficient processes
- Certified or audited by programmes that uphold safety, human rights and animal welfare values
Materials that we consider to be Better Practice are prioritised. In the "Improving Our Best Loved Fabrics" section below, you can see some examples of the work we have done to shift our commonly-used fabrics to be Better Practice.
COTTON
We have converted our commonly used Cotton bases from Conventional Cotton to Traceable Organic Cotton. For example: Mirella, Poplin, Stretch Poplin, Voile, Ginghams (including new Sky seer sucker gingham), Drill, Quilt Jacketing.
View by product here.
What we are working on is developing Traceable, Organic Cotton Stripe bases & T-shirting fabrics, plus Knitwear Yarns.
ACETATE
The acetate component of our ‘Firebird Crepe’ and ‘Weirder Satin’ fabrics are now made using Naia™ fibres and we have visibility of the supply chain. See more about this in the Materials Index below.
We have onboarded a new Naia™ acetate fabric mill in China and we have visibility of the supply chain. See more about this in the Materials Index.
POLYESTER
We have converted some of our popular, ready-made stock fabrics to traceable and recycled sources. For example: Plain Chiffon, Crinkle Chiffon, Cher Satin. View by product here.
We use a Recycled Polyester fill in our Quilted Jackets.
Our future orders of Polyester mesh will be produced in traceable Recycled Polyester.
In 2024 we trialed a 100% Recycled Polyester to replace our much loved “Fortuna Satin'' but unfortunately the finish and quality wasn't quite up to scratch. We will keep working with the fabric supplier on this.
LINEN
Our linen and linen blends are now sourced directly from mills that hold certification for the manufacturing of raw flax material in Europe. We have full supply chain transparency to the raw material region.
RAYON/ VISCOSE
More ECOVERO™ yarns have been incorporated into our ranges to replace conventional untraceable Rayon Viscose. For example: Linen/ECOVERO™, ECOVERO™/Viscose Crepe, Viscose/ECOVERO™ Poplin.
We will also be working with FSC® certified mills to produce a new Viscose Crepe De Chine base and more- keep an eye out!
POLYESTER/ VISCOSE
55% Recycled Polyester 45% Viscose fabric is now being used for our jacket and coat linings. The fabric dyeing and printing mill holds a certification to show no harmful chemicals are used in their facility.
KNITWEAR YARNS
The team is working hard to trace and map the supply chain of our knitwear yarns and to convert yarns to Better Practice where available. For example: Organic, Recycled Responsible Animal & Wood fibres. Unfortunately, there are still very limited amounts of these yarns available in the varying qualities and thickness that we require. And as outlined, this can be challenging when purchasing small amounts.
RECYCLED VISCOSE
Through our sourcing efforts, we have added a 65% Recycled Viscose yarn to our knitwear range.
In addition to our Best Practice definition and prioritisation, we have identified 5 classifications we want to highlight about the manufacturing of our materials and garments. On our website, we note when a product is manufactured in this way. If you only want to buy pieces that are Made in Aotearoa, or use Organic materials for example, you can filter your search by that classification tag.
By-product Material
Made in Aotearoa
Organic Material
Recycled Material
RUBY Says Recycle
Zero Production Waste
For more information on our classifications, click here.
As a member of Mindful Fashion New Zealand, we take part in the “Certifications & Standards” webinars they run in conjunction with LENZING™, Textile Exchange, Control Union, GOTS, FSC® and Oeko-Tex to help us how we can improve, along with understanding the complexities of Fabric Certifications.
Thousands of chemicals are used in the textile industry to process, dye and finish materials. Some of these chemicals have been linked to negative health impacts, and toxic pollution in our rivers and oceans. Our suppliers are required to sign and adhere to our RUBY supplier manual, which includes a list of restricted substances. We prioritise mills that hold certifications proving that they do not use these substances in their facilities.
Below is our list of restricted substances:
- Alkylphenol (APs) including Nonylphenol, Octylphenol & Ethoxylates (APEs)
- Azo dyes
- Chlorinated solvents
- Chlorobenzenes
- Chlorophenols
- Chromium
- Formaldehyde
- Heavy metals including cadmium, lead, nickel and mercury
- Per- and Polyfluorinated Substances (PFAS) & Perfluorochemicals (PFCS)
- Phthalates
- Short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs)
More detail on individual substances can be found in our glossary.
There may come a time when your garment is no longer fit for wear. In our Materials Index, we outline what can happen at the end of life of each of the fibre types listed, so you can make informed decisions when buying something.
We are aware that some of these processes are likely not available to you in your own homes. This is why we will take our RUBY and Liam garments back (just drop into our IRL stores or send it back to RUBY online) and, depending on what the fabric type is, we will send it to one of our partners such as ImpacTex to be processed into something else of value.
For more information about what happens at the end of life of our pieces, take a look at the Waste section of our Toolbox.
OUR CHALLENGES
Traceability
Like most businesses in the clothing industry, we have a complex supply chain, from raw material extraction or farming, to the processing of fibres, spinning, weaving and dyeing, to the end supplier of the fabrics.
This complexity can make it extremely difficult to trace materials back to the raw material stage.
In addition, being a New Zealand-based company of our size, we purchase relatively small quantities of fabrics compared to larger, global brands, limiting our ability to demand greater transparency.
Minimum Order Quantities
We have found that many of what we define as Better Practice materials require a higher minimum order quantity than we might need. There is a balance between getting Better Practice materials while also being mindful of overproduction, and committing to materials that we may not need. This means that we are still reliant on using some ready-made or stock materials, and purchasing from agents or New Zealand wholesalers, which can add another layer of opacity to our already complex supply chain.
Some newer technologies, for example recycled knitwear yarns, have less stock availability, and they can also lead to quality issues as they are less developed and tested in the market.
Certification Communications
When purchasing fabrics made with Organic Cotton + Linen, Recycled Polyester + Nylon, European grown Linen, Responsible Animal fibres and Responsibly sourced Wood fibres (Viscose, Acetate), we work with certified mills to produce these fabrics who also supply proof of certified content. Not all of the garment factories that we use (both in New Zealand and in China), and also RUBY do not hold the same certification and due to the rules we are not allowed to mention the name of these certifications. In order to reference these certification brands and brand marks; we must have the entire supply chain of that particular product certified, along with our company, which is not feasible for the variety of small factories that we work with.
Currently, most of our CMT factories are not certified with these fabric-branded certifications. 50% of our product is made in New Zealand, and due to the small size of our New Zealand-based factories, it is not viable for them to get this certification.
If you would like to understand more about these raw materials and the supply chain in which the fabrics and garments are made, you can view this in the Materials index below, and also on the product pages under the Fabric + Make section. We will also tag a garment if it is made of these preferred fibres. You can learn more about these tags here.
Our Plan
- 1
Continue to build on our understanding of Better Practice materials through scientific, validated data.
- 2
Continue to educate customers and staff to influence purchasing decisions towards Better Practice materials.
- 3
Stop sourcing conventional, untraceable Cotton from stock markets, and move to Organic/ Traceable milled cotton with full supply chain transparency.
- 4
Continue the work on Improving Our Best Loved Fabrics to Better Practice. For example converting: Fortuna Satin to Recycled Polyester, Denim to Organic Cotton, Corvette Crepe to ECOVERO™ Viscose.
- 5
Continue the work on Improving Our Best Loved Yarns to Better Practice.
For example:
Converting Cotton knitwear to Organic, Traceable sources.
Converting Viscose, Polyester & Nylon to Recycled yarns.
Converting Wools to Responsible Animal fibres.
These were our FY24 goals for Materials. Outlined is whether we achieved them or not.
💗 Achieved
🤍 Pending
🖤 Not Achieved
1. Continue to build on our understanding of Better Practice materials through scientific, validated data.
💗 We will continue doing this.
2. Continue to improve the materials we consistently use in production, for example:
- Convert polyester bases to recycled polyester
- Source traceable and organic for our cotton spandex, cotton polyester and cotton tencel blended fabric bases
- Source organic and/or recycled content denim
- Conventional viscose, lyocell and modal to traceable, closed-loop options eg LENZING™ ECOVERO™ and TENCEL™
- Source a wider range of Better Practice, traceable knitwear yarns such as recycled, organic, LENZING™ and responsible animal fibres
- Source alternative silk options
- Use the 55% recycled polyester 45% viscose lining in 100% of our coats and jackets
- Improve Better Practice materials for all our zips
💗 We will continue striving for this on other bases.
💗 We will continue striving for this.
🖤 We will revisit this in 2025.
💗 We will continue striving for this.
🤍 We are working on this.
💗 We are purchasing much less silk. In place of silk we are using certified viscose fabrics.
💗 We will continue to do this.
🖤 We will revisit this in 2025.
See “Improving Our Best Loved Fabrics to Better Practice” for detailed updates on these materials.
3. Measure and report on our use of Better Practice materials.
💗 We will continue doing this.
4. Set Better Practice material goals for 2024 and 2025, and publish them by the end of 2023.
🖤 We have measured FY24 materials and are working through materials purchasing strategies. We are aiming to publish FY24 and FY25 in 2025.
5. Increase the transparency of our materials supply chain. Currently we have traced back at least 65% of our products to mill stage (spinning, weaving and dyeing), and our goal is to increase this to 75%.
🖤 Unfortunately we were not able to meet this goal but through our recent work on sourcing, we think this will increase for FY25.
FY24 Goals = 7.5/12 Achieved.
Note: FY (Financial Year) is April 2023 - end March 2024.

Materials Index
Fabric Index
Below is a list of fibre types, and the fabrics that we use to make into garments. This is not a list of every fibre we use, but they are the main ones.

Acetate is created by processing wood pulp into cellulose fibers and is then combined with acetic acid. Although acetate fibres come from a natural and renewable resource, it is considered a semi-synthetic fabric because of the chemical processes it goes through to create the fibre.
The biggest risks in the production of acetate are its links to deforestation, and the destruction of endangered forests and ecosystems as well as the use of harmful chemicals during manufacturing. According to Canopy, over 200 million trees are logged every year for the production of cellulosic fibres such as acetate. For this reason we classify Eastman Naia™ cellulosic fibre to be a Better Practice material, and we use it in our most popular fabrics: 'Weirder Satin' and 'Firebird Crepe'.
Naia™ is responsibly sourced from pine or eucalyptus forests and plantations that are managed to ensure no deforestation occurs, and they hold certifications that ensure transparency from the forest to the yarn. The fibre is made in the U.S.A with high safety, social, and environmental standards. Their closed-loop production process includes the recycling and reuse of safe solvents and water, ensuring no pollution or chemicals are leached into local waterways or oceans. Naia™ also holds a certification to show no harmful chemicals are used in their facilities. See our restricted substance list for chemicals that we see as the most hazardous.
Below are the current supply chain locations for our 'Weirder Satin' and 'Firebird Crepe' pieces:
1. Forests & Plantations: North America, Western Europe, and Brazil
2. Yarn production and spinning- Naia™: Tennessee, USA
3. Yarn spinning- Polyester: Toyama, Japan
4. Fabric weaving and dyeing: Fukui Prefecture, Japan
5. Fabric supplier: Osaka, Japan
Below are the current supply chain locations for our ‘Ninette’, ‘Logan’ and ‘Bette’ pieces:
Forests & Plantations (Acetate): North America, Western Europe, and Brazil.
Yarn production and spinning (Acetate)- Naia™: Tennessee, USA
Yarn spinning (Polyester): Korea
Fabric weaving: Suzhou, China
Fabric dyeing: Shaoxing, China
Fabric supplier: Shaoxing, China
At the end of life, acetate and acetate blends can be recycled into new products through our partnership with ImpacTex.
As seen on products

Cotton is a soft, white fibre which grows surrounding the seeds of the cotton plant, and is the most widespread non-food crop in the world. Cotton is predominantly grown in hot climates, such as parts of India, USA, Brazil, Australia and China. Cotton is a breathable, comfortable and a renewable fibre that is a favourite for many of our RUBY pieces.
Conventional cotton most commonly uses monocropping farming practices, and synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, which can harm the health of farmers and local communities, as well as degrading the soil. Extensive use of these practices can lead to more water and irrigation needing to be used, as the soil is less healthy, and can absorb less water. Supporting the regeneration of soil is important for addressing global challenges such as climate change and biodiversity loss.
Cotton has also had a long history of being linked with slavery and exploitative practices, as identified in the 2020 US Department of Labor’s List of Goods Produced by Child and Forced Labor. Instances of forced and child labour are still being linked to the growing, producing and processing of cotton. Most recently, there have been multiple reports that cotton produced from the Xinjiang region in China, has been produced through the use of forced labour camps. This is concerning, as over 20% of the world's cotton is said to come from China, and 80% of China’s cotton is grown in the Xinjiang region.
When we are using conventional cotton, we work with our suppliers to ensure that they are not sourcing cotton from any conflict regions such as the Xinjiang region in China.
At the end of life, as a natural fibre 100% cotton and cotton blended with only other natural fibres such as linen or silk can be composted. If you want to compost at home, make sure you remove trims such as buttons or zips and cut out panels that have synthetic fusing such as collars, cuffs and button stands. Cut the fabric up into small pieces (2-3cm wide), and distribute it evenly in your compost bin.
100% Cotton (organic and recycled included) can be recycled through fibre to fibre textile recycling programmes, such as LYB.
Cotton blended with synthetic or semi-synthetic blends such as polyester or viscose can be recycled through our partnership with ImpacTex.

Organic Cotton is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, encourages rainwater irrigation and helps to maintain biodiversity. For this reason, we consider certified organic cotton to be a Better Practice material.
The organic cotton that we use is traced back to the cotton lint stage. The facilities used to produce this organic cotton are certified organic, meaning they are audited against standards that ensure no harmful chemicals are used in the manufacturing of fabrics and that facilities meet strict social and environmental criteria.
Below are the current supply chain locations for our Organic Cotton Voile, Poplin, Drill and Ginghams that we source through our supplier in Jiaxing, China.
1. Cotton lint: India (occasionally USA)
2. Yarn spinning and fabric weaving: Pingdingshan, Henan, China
3. Fabric dyeing and printing: Hangzhou, China
4. Fabric supplier: Jiaxing, China
The Organic Cotton seer sucker gingham has the below supply chain locations.
1. Cotton lint: India (occasionally USA)
2. Yarn spinning & dyeing: Yancheng, China
3. Fabric weaving: Nantong, China
4. Fabric supplier: Jiaxing, China
Below are the current supply chain locations for our Organic Cotton Stretch Poplin that we source through our supplier in Suzhou, China.
1. Cotton lint: India (occasionally USA)
2. Yarn spinning and fabric weaving: Zhengzhou, Henan, China
3. Fabric dyeing and printing: Hangzhou, China
4. Fabric supplier: Suzhou, China
Below are the current supply chain locations for our Organic Cotton Poplin Sateen that we source through our supplier in Suzhou, China.
1. Cotton lint: India (occasionally USA)
2. Yarn spinning: Zhengzhou, Henan, China
3. Fabric weaving: Pingdingshan, Henan, China
3. Fabric dyeing and printing: Hangzhou, China
4. Fabric supplier: Suzhou, China

Recycled cotton is also a fibre that we consider Better Practice, since it does not require virgin resource inputs, it uses what is already available, and can reduce landfill waste.
We are watching these developments closely, however recycled cotton is still relatively new to the market meaning it is less available to small brands and requires high minimum order quantities.

Cupro is a regenerated cellulose fibre that is typically a by-product of cotton production. Like acetate and viscose, these natural materials are combined with chemicals which, if not controlled properly, can be harmful to people and the environment.
There are alternatives to conventional cupro, for example Bemberg™. The raw material of Bemberg™ is cotton lint that is a by-product obtained from the manufacturing process of cotton and cottonseed oil. Bemberg™ strictly controls the chemical substances used in the manufacturing process and has introduced a closed-loop production system that recovers and reuses major chemicals, helping to reduce the reliance on resources, and keeping chemicals out of local ecosystems. We consider Bemberg™ to be a Better Practice material.
The fabric dyeing mill holds a certification to show no harmful chemicals are used in their facility. See our restricted substance list for chemicals that we see as the most hazardous.
Below are the current supply chain locations of our Bemberg™ cupro pieces:
1. Cotton linter: India, Brazil, USA and Japan
2. Yarn production and spinning: Miyazaki Prefecture, Japan
3. Fabric weaving and dyeing: Fukui-shi, Fukui Prefecture, Japan
4. Fabric supplier: Osaka, Japan
At the end of life, cupro can be composted. If you want to compost at home, make sure you remove trims such as buttons or zips and cut out panels that have synthetic fusing such as collars, cuffs and button stands. Cut the fabric up into small pieces (2-3cm wide), and distribute it evenly in your compost bin.
Cupro and cupro blended with other fibres can also be recycled into new products through our partnership with ImpacTex.

Deadstock fabric is known by a few names, for example overstock, surplus fabric, end of line, and remnant. Basically, it's any leftover fabric that won’t be used for its original purpose or order fulfillment. Deadstock is often favoured by smaller brands due to the lower quantities available, and it can save the fabric from possibly ending up in landfill.
The downside to using deadstock fabrics is that it creates demand for materials that are a direct result of overproduction, and often are untraceable with little to no visibility of where they have come from.
Although we do not consider deadstock to be a Better Practice fabric, we do sometimes use it to supplement our collections due to the small amount we need to purchase, the fact that it already exists, and is available to cut and make immediately in New Zealand. For Deadstock fabrics, we work with Wall Fabrics and Fabric Merchants

Feather and down provides that warm-fluffy feeling you get from wearing one of our puffers. Using real feathers and down does have its risks, and there have been links to the mistreatment of birds in the production process. This is why we do not permit the use of feather or down that is not sourced through responsible, traceable and certified sources. We work with suppliers who are certified and provide these certifications with purchasing.
Below are the current supply chain locations for the feather and down we source for our Puffer Jackets:
1. White duck & feather down: Shandong, China
2. Processing + Selling: Shanghai, China

Linen is made from the fibre of the flax plant, and is one of the most durable and breathable fabrics. It is considered a lower impact fibre because it is natural, renewable and requires less energy and water to grow than cotton.
The flax that we use in our 100% linen and 55% linen 45% ECOVERO™ viscose pieces is grown and processed in Northern Europe, from farms in France, Belgium, or The Netherlands by farmer-owned cooperatives. The flax is irrigated through rain water, and the entire plant is used meaning there is zero waste. We consider this to be a Better Practice material.
According to European Flax®, a European organisation federating all the stages of production and transformation for linen & hemp, the linen produced in Europe is grown using no genetically modified organism (GMO) seeds, and uses very little fertilisers and pesticides.
Below are the supply chain locations of this linen:
1. Flax farm & Scutching Process: France, Belgium or The Netherlands
2. Yarn spinning, fabric weaving, dyeing, printing and Supplier: Tongling, Anhui, China
At the end of life, as a natural fibre, 100% linen and linen blended with other natural fibres such as cotton or hemp can be composted. If you want to compost at home, make sure you remove trims such as buttons or zips and cut out panels that have synthetic fusing such as collars, cuffs and button stands. Cut the fabric up into small pieces (2-3cm wide), and distribute it evenly in your compost bin.
100% linen can be recycled through fibre to fibre recycling programmes.
Linens that have been blended with synthetic or semi-synthetic fibres such as polyester or viscose can be recycled through our partnership with ImpacTex.

We understand that there are many environmental risks associated with the production and use of synthetic fibres, but they still remain some of the most durable, wearer friendly fabrics available. Synthetics like polyester usually do not require ironing, dry quickly and last for a very long time without deteriorating.
We also recognise that polyester fabrics, both virgin and recycled, release microfibres when they are worn and washed. We will continue to educate our customers through our care guide and product information, on the considered washing and care techniques, to help limit the amount of microfibres that are released into waterways.
Unfortunately polyester waste in landfill can take 20-200 years to break down. At the end of life polyester and polyester blends can be recycled into new products through our partnership with ImpacTex.
Traditional polyester yarn is made using petroleum-based raw materials, which are non-renewable, and according to Stanford, cause high levels of emissions through the extraction stage.
We are working hard to convert some of our most-loved fabrics to be made from recycled polyester. High minimum order quantities, finding the same quality, as well as durability concerns are still challenging.
For some of our most used polyester bases we do have supply chain visibility which is broken down below.
Below are the current supply chain locations for our 'Fortuna Satin' pieces:.
1. Yarn spinning and Fabric weaving: Fukui Prefecture, Japan.
2. Fabric Dyeing: Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan
3. Fabric supplier: Osaka, Japan
The above fabric dyeing mill holds a certification to show no harmful chemicals are used in their facility. See our restricted substance list for the chemicals that we see as the most hazardous.
Below are the current supply chain locations for the polyester component of our Firebird Crepe and 'Weirder Satin' pieces:
1. Yarn spinning: Toyama, Japan
2. Fabric weaving and dyeing: Fukui Prefecture, Japan
3. Fabric supplier: Osaka, Japan

Traditional polyester yarn is made using petroleum-based raw materials, which are non-renewable, and according to Stanford, cause high levels of emissions through the extraction stage.
Recycled Polyester does not extract these non-renewable resources, instead using materials that are already in circulation. It also requires 59% less energy in production compared with virgin polyester, according to industry body Textile Exchange. It is often generated from post-consumer waste like plastic bottles, which helps to reduce ocean pollution and the volume of waste being sent to landfills. Polyester waste in landfill can take 20-200 years to break down.
We consider recycled polyester to be a Better Practice material.
The facilities used to produce our recycled polyester are certified recycled, meaning they are audited against standards that ensure no harmful chemicals are used in the manufacturing of fabrics and that facilities meet strict social and environmental criteria.
Below are the current supply chain locations of our Recycled Polyester Chiffon and Crinkle Chiffon. :
1. Raw Material Processing and Yarn spinning: Ningbo, China
2. Fabric weaving, dyeing and printing: Suzhou, China
3. Fabric supplier: Jiaxing, China
Below are the current supply chain locations for our Recycled Polyester ‘Cher Satin’ fabric.
1. Raw Material Processing and Yarn spinning: Hangzhou, China
2. Fabric weaving: Suzhou, China
3. Fabric dyeing: Wujiang, China
4. Fabric supplier: Suzhou, China
Below are the current supply chain locations for our Recycled Polyester Mesh fabric.
1. Raw Material Processing and Yarn spinning: Zhejiang, Shaoxing, China
2. Fabric weaving: Zhejiang, Shaoxing, China
3. Fabric dyeing and printing: Zhejiang, China
4. Fabric supplier: Suzhou, China

Like polyester, traditional nylon (polyamide) is a synthetic fibre, and is made from petroleum-based raw materials, which is a non-renewable resource. Nylon waste in landfill can take decades to break down. For this reason, we consider recycled or regenerated nylon to be a Better Practice material.
At the end of life nylon and recycled & regenerative nylon (including blends) can be recycled into new products through our partnership with ImpacTex.
Conventional nylon is sometimes used in our products as a smaller component mixed with other fibres to improve performance issues like stability and strength. For example, our Corvette Pants and some of our knitwear yarns like the Matilda Cardigan.
As highlighted in the Challenges section above, converting these fibres to be made from recycled materials has difficulties due to availability and higher minimum order quantities.

The recycled nylon (polyamide) that is used in some of our products, is generated from pre-consumer waste such as fabric and carpet waste, which results in reducing landfill and ocean pollution.
The facilities used to produce this recycled nylon are certified recycled, meaning they are audited against standards that ensure no harmful chemicals are used in the manufacturing of fabrics and that facilities meet strict social and environmental criteria.
Below are the current supply chain locations for the Recycled Nylon component of our Cloud Puffer Jackets:
1. Raw Material Processing: Anhui, Sheng, China
2. Spinning, Weaving and Dyeing: Suzhou, China
ECONYL® is manufactured by Aquafil. It is regenerated nylon (polyamide) made out of waste that’s been rescued from landfills and oceans around the world. It is produced in a closed-loop manufacturing process.
According to Aquafil, ECONYL® avoids approximately 50% of carbon dioxide emissions and uses approximately 50% less energy compared to virgin polyamide yarns.
The fibre is processed, spun and knitted into fabric in Europe - usually Slovenia. It is then transported to our Supplier in Jiaxing, China for printing or dyeing and CMT manufacturing of sports wear or swim wear.

Silk is a natural, renewable fibre that usually comes from Bombyx mori (silkworm) cocoons. Silkworms are farmed on orchards where mulberry plants are grown as worm food. Silk is a luxury fibre, and has been produced in China for thousands of years.
Conventional silk has been linked to animal welfare concerns, as the silkworm cocoons are boiled in the processing stage. Silk processing also requires a high use of water, chemicals and energy for growing and to convert the cocoon into silk fibre.
Alternatives to conventional silk are being developed: Peace Silk, Organic Silk, Recycled Silk, Vegan silks and fibres made from spider webs. We are watching these developments closely, but currently their limited scale, high order quantities and high costs do not make them commercially viable for us to use just yet.
We have traced our 100% silk styles back to the silkworm farm stage, and will continue to work towards having full transparency of our supply chain.
Below are the supply chain locations of our silk pieces:
1. Silk farm, processing and yarn spinning: Guangxi Province, China
2. Fabric weaving: Jiaxing, China.
3. Fabric dyeing and printing: Hangzhou, China
4. Fabric supplier: Jiaxing, China
The above fabric dyeing and printing mills hold a certification to show no harmful chemicals are used in their facility. See our restricted substance list for chemicals that we see as the most hazardous.
At the end of life, as a natural fibre, 100% silk and silk blended with only other natural fibres such as cotton, can be composted. If you want to compost at home, make sure you remove trims such as buttons or zips and cut out panels that have synthetic fusing such as collars, cuffs and button stands. Cut the fabric up into small pieces (2-3cm wide), and distribute it evenly in your compost bin.
100% silk can be recycled through fibre to fibre recycling programmes.
Silk that has been blended with synthetic or semi-synthetic fibres such as polyester or viscose can be recycled through our partnership with ImpacTex.

Viscose is made from wood pulp, which is then combined with chemicals to produce viscose fibres. The wood pulp is derived from fast growing trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine, as well as plants such as bamboo, soy, and sugar cane. Although viscose comes from a natural and renewable resource, it is considered a semi-synthetic fabric because of the chemical processes it goes through to create the fibre.
The biggest risks in the production of viscose are its links to deforestation, and the destruction of endangered forests and ecosystems, as well as the use of harmful chemicals during manufacturing. According to Canopy, over 200 million trees are logged every year for the production of cellulosic fibres such as viscose.
Although we are in the process of sourcing alternatives to conventional viscose, there are still some favourite fabrics that we have not yet managed to convert to ECOVERO™, recycled or traceable, certified and controlled wood sources. As highlighted in the Challenges section above, converting these fabrics to be made in these fibres has difficulties due to higher minimum order quantities, yarn availability and durability. For example, we have sourced, sampled and tested ECOVERO™ blended with nylon alternatives that imitate the look and feel of our current Corvette Pant fabric but unfortunately the performance of the alternatives failed inhouse and external quality testing. Other fabrics we are working to convert include our knitwear yarns like Emma and Lollo. We will keep searching for these options.
At the end of life, viscose and viscose blends can be recycled into new products through our partnership with ImpacTex.

The biggest risks in the production of viscose are its links to deforestation, and the destruction of endangered forests and ecosystems, as well as the use of harmful chemicals during manufacturing.
We prioritise using Viscose and Rayon that has been sourced through Forest Management Certification programmes which confirms that the forest is being managed in a way that preserves biological diversity and benefits the lives of local people and workers, while ensuring it sustains economic viability. By doing this, we are ensuring that the fibres procured do not contribute to deforestation.
ECOVERO™, is a rayon viscose fibre that is developed by LENZING™. It is made using wood pulp from forests that are traceable, certified and controlled meeting FSC® or PEFC standards. This means that pulp is not obtained from protected or endangered forests, and all forests are replanted after extraction.
LENZING™ uses a closed loop chemical production process where the water is recycled and the solvent reused at a recovery of more than 99%, ensuring little to no chemicals are discharged.
We consider ECOVERO™ to be a Better Practice material.
We currently work with two China-based suppliers who manufacture fabric using LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibres.
Below are the supply chain locations for the ECOVERO™ component of our current 55% linen 45% ECOVERO™ viscose pieces:
1. Forests: mainly Austria and some other European countries.
2. Dissolving wood pulp: mainly Austria and Paskov, Czech Republic. Other wood pulp locations include USA, Thailand, Canada, South Africa, Sweden.
3. Yarn spinning: Hubei, China
4. Fabric weaving, dyeing, printing and Supplier: Tongling, Anhui, China
Below are the supply chain locations for the ECOVERO™ component of our current 58% ECOVERO™ 42% viscose crepe and 55% Viscose 45% ECOVERO™ viscose poplin pieces.
1. Forests: mainly Austria and some other European countries.
2. Dissolving wood pulp: mainly Austria and Paskov, Czech Republic. Other wood pulp locations include USA, Thailand, Canada, South Africa, Sweden.
3. Yarn spinning: Shanghai, China
4. Fabric weaving: Suzhou, China
5. Fabric dyeing: Wujiang, China
6. Fabric printing: Hangzhou, China
7. Fabric Supplier: Suzhou, China
Where ECOVERO™ is not available, we aim to source new viscose fabrics through mills who hold FSC® or PEFC certifications and are able to trace back to these certified and controlled forests.
Below are the supply chain locations for our 100% Viscose Crepe De Chine pieces.
1. Forests: mainly Austria and some other European countries.
2. Dissolving wood pulp: mainly Austria and Paskov, Czech Republic. Other wood pulp locations include USA, Thailand, Canada, South Africa, Sweden.
3. Yarn spinning: Shanghai, China
4. Fabric weaving: Suzhou, China
5. Fabric dyeing: Wujiang, China
6. Fabric printing: Hangzhou, China
7. Fabric Supplier: Suzhou, China

In the search for certified viscose knitwear yarns, we came across a new yarn called Recycled Viscose which is a regenerated cellulose fibre. The raw material of this yarn is cotton and it is recycled from post-consumer waste. It then goes through a chemical process like viscose.
We consider recycled viscose to be a Better Practice material as it is renewable and recycled which encourages reuse and helps reduce waste from ending up in landfill. It also reduces the need for wood sources that are typically used in viscose which is problematic for deforestation and the destruction of endangered forests and ecosystems.
Below are the supply chain locations of our 65% Recycled Viscose 35% Nylon and 63% Recycled viscose, 34% nylon, 3% elastane yarns:
1. Raw Material: Post-consumer cotton waste
2. Yarn spinning and dyeing: Changzhou, China
3. Yarn Supplier: Changzhou, China
The facilities used to produce this recycled viscose yarn are certified recycled, meaning they are audited against standards that ensure no harmful chemicals are used in the manufacturing of yarns and that facilities meet strict social and environmental criteria.
At the end of life, recycled viscose and recycled viscose blends can be recycled again into new products through our partnership with ImpacTex.

Wool has amazing temperature regulating, breathability and comfort properties. However, we recognise that there are concerns about the mistreatment of animals in the production of wool.
We do not permit the use of Angora due to the inhumane way rabbits are sometimes treated. If you would like to know more about this visit the PETA site, but be warned it is harrowing. We mainly use wools such as Lambs wool, Merino, Alpaca, Mohair and Cashmere.
As wool is a natural fibre, t the end of life it can be composted if it contains only other natural fibres such as mohair, alpaca, cashmere, cotton, linen and silk. If you want to compost at home, make sure you remove trims such as buttons or zips and cut out panels that have synthetic fusing such as collars, cuffs and button stands. Cut the fabric up into small pieces (2-3cm wide), and distribute it evenly in your compost bin.
100% wool and merino can be recycled through fibre to fibre recycling programmes.
Wool that has been blended with synthetic or semi-synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon spandex or viscose can also be recycled through our partnership with Upparel.

We always strive to source yarns and fabrics that are from responsible, certified and traceable sources where possible. The wool certifications that we look for ensure that animal welfare, land management and social standards are upheld through the supply chain. We consider this to be a Better Practice material.
Products mentioned use lambs wool, mohair, alpaca or cashmere from certified yarn and fabric facilities.
As seen on products

Recycled wool is also a fibre that we consider Better Practice, since it does not require virgin resource inputs, it uses what is already available, and can help reduce landfill waste.
We are watching these developments closely, however recycled wool is still relatively new to the market meaning it is less available to small brands and requires high minimum order quantities.
Fabric Index
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Picture Terre de Lin / Sébastien Randé
Trim Index
Below is a list of trims that we use to make and finish garments. This is not a list of every trim we use, but they are the main ones.

We have sourced new jean patches for the back of our Solar Shorts & Jeans (delivered from December 2022) to use going forward. These are made from 21% apple waste (yes, the fruit) and mixed with 27% PU, 38% Polyester and 14% Cotton - these components are needed as they are used as a bonding agent to make the patches.
The apple skin and core is waste (by-product) from the juicing process and is imported from Europe and manufactured in a Canadian factory.

Our care labels are made from post consumer recycled polyester.
Recycled polyester does not extract non-renewable resources, instead using materials that are already in circulation, reducing landfill waste.

Corozo or tagua comes from the seed of palm trees that are most often grown in South America. They can only be produced from a ripe nut, which has naturally fallen from the tree, meaning no trees are cut down to harvest this material.
Corozo buttons do not contain any chemicals or toxic ingredients and are naturally biodegradable.

Our Liam brand & size labels are made from post consumer recycled polyester.
Recycled polyester does not extract non-renewable resources, instead using materials that are already in circulation, reducing landfill waste.

The small buttons that you will find on our shirts, are made of 30% recycled plastic and 70% virgin plastic. We ideally would like to use a higher % of recycled content in our buttons, but due to quality and durability constraints of recycled plastic, the highest we can procure at the moment is 30% recycled content.
We aim to use recycled material in other buttons but this isn't always possible due to availability and high minimum order quantities.

The fusing / interfacing we use on our shirt collars, plackets and jackets, to help keep their shape, are produced using 70% post consumer recycled polyester with 30% conventional polyamide (nylon) glue.
Recycled polyester does not extract non-renewable resources, instead using materials that are already in circulation, reducing landfill waste.

Our RUBY brand & size labels are made from Organic Cotton.
Organic farming practices mean that the plant is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers which can harm the health of farmers and local communities, as well as degrading the soil quality and polluting local waterways. Supporting the regeneration of soil is important for addressing global challenges such as climate change and biodiversity loss, and organic farming helps to do this.
At the end of life these labels can be removed from the garment and are recyclable, biodegradable and compostable.

All RUBY and Liam swing tags are made of recycled paper and use a cotton cord.
The swing tag and string can be composted after use (just remove the little safety pin). Alternatively the swing tag (excluding the string and safety pin) can be recycled.

We purchase our zips from YKK which is one of the highest quality zip brands in the world. The materials for our local production are mostly sourced from YKK Taiwan and sometimes from YKK Japan and Indonesia. YKK New Zealand are currently transitioning over their range from virgin polyester to recycled PET polyester.
We most commonly use concealed invisible zips in some of our garments, such as dresses, tops, skirts and pants. Previously these zips have been made with polyester or nylon (tape), plastic (teeth) and metal alloy (puller). We are now starting to change these to be made with recycled polyester or nylon (tape), recycled PET plastic (teeth) and metal alloy (puller).
We use metal zips in some of our heavier weight garments such as denim jeans, shorts and skirts and sometimes outerwear like jackets and coats. Currently these are made of polyester (tape) and brass or aluminum alloy (teeth & puller), but will soon also be switched over to use recycled polyester tape.
We sometimes use lighter weight, chunkier zips in garments such as puffer jackets. These VISLON® zips are made of polyester or nylon (tape) and injected plastic elements, such as polyacetal resin (teeth & puller), but will soon also be switched over to use recycled polyester tape.
We will continue looking into Better Practice materials for our zips, such as recycled and plant derived materials.
Fabric Index
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Packaging Index
In 2019 we overhauled all of our packaging, which included banning plastic bags from stores, head office and our supply chains. As well as this, we relooked at the way stock was being packaged and delivered from factories overseas to ensure unnecessary packaging was removed completely. There’s an environmental cost to everything that’s accepted, from the smallest sticker to wrapping paper and garment packing bags. All existing packaging was scrutinised and better alternatives sourced where possible.
Ultimately, we believe that the packaging our customers can reuse many times over is superior to recycling after one use. When we favour packaging that is durable and has prolonged use, we help to lessen the impact of producing the item in the first place.

Our accessory care cards are made from 100% post consumer recycled waste. They are recyclable and compostable.

RUBY branded courier mailers we use to ship our online orders to customers are certified home compostable. These are made of a mix of PLA (Corn Starch) and PBAT (Polybutyrate Adipate Terephthalate) and can be composted at home (worm farms included) and in commercially compostable environments.
* Australian Bioplastics Association Certificate of Conformance to the Australian Standard. AS 5810. Certificate number: ABAP 20013.
Occasionally, we will also use courier mailers from New Zealand company Better Packaging. The “Real Dirt Bag” is a certified home compostable, fully biodegradable mailing satchel*. It is made from PLA (Corn Starch) and PBAT (Polybutyrate Adipate Terephthalate). This combination of materials is non-toxic and contains no Phthalate or Bisphenol A (BPA).
We believe that using compostable materials reduces our reliance on the extraction of non-renewable resources (i.e. petroleum). It also means that if they are correctly managed, they can compost back to nature at the end of use without polluting ecosystems.
*Australian Bioplastics Association Certificate of Conformance to the Australian Standard. AS 5810. Certificate number: ABAP 20049.

In 2019 we designed and manufactured reusable shower proof stock bags made from post-consumer recycled materials. These bags are used to deliver our hanging stock to and from head office and stores. Rather than using single-use plastic bags (we actually used to use the plastic bags 10+ times), these bags can be used for many years! Additionally, sewing repairs can be done on these after prolonged use to extend the lifespan.

When freighting garments to New Zealand, to ensure the product is protected from damage and the wet, we need to line the cardboard boxes or individually bag garments like knitwear for storage purposes. For this we use home compostable bags. These are made of a mix of PLA (Corn Starch) and PBAT. Once they can no longer be used between stores and head office for freighting products back and forward, we want to ensure they are responsibly composted, so we send to Green Gorilla to be commercially composted.
* Australian Bioplastics Association Certificate of Conformance to the Australian Standard. AS 5810. Certificate number: ABAP 20013.

In 2019 we re-designed and re-sourced the materials we use for our shoe box which are also used as gift boxes. The final design can be flat packed, not only to take up less storage space, but also to reduce volume for shipping. We added a handle to the box to minimise the need for an additional carry bag when purchasing footwear from stores. These boxes were created with multiple use in mind, so customers can keep these boxes for further use.
The boxes are made of a FSC® certified* and recycled paper card mix and have a paper pulp handle. When you no longer have a use for this box, please remove the strap and magnet, and dispose of the box with your paper recycling. The strap is biodegradable.
* FSC® A00054

Our RUBY jewellery bags are made from organic cotton, use a soy-based ink for printing and the drawstring is made from paper pulp. The bags were created to minimise the use for wrapping paper and a carry bag when customers take home their purchases. They were also designed to be used again and again (think travel jewellery bags or gift bags). At the end of their life they are biodegradable.

Our jewellery packing bags which are used for shipping, storage and sale of products are made from a mix of PLA (Corn Starch) and PBAT, and can be composted at home (worm farms included) and also in commercially compostable environments.
* Australian Bioplastics Association Certificate of Conformance to the Australian Standard. AS 5810. Certificate number: ABAP 20013.

Liam pattern envelope paper is milled in Whakatane, New Zealand, and printed and assembled in Auckland, New Zealand.
The envelopes are printed on FSC® certified paper*, produced using 100% New Zealand Elemental Chlorine Free (ECP) pulp, and manufactured under the strict ISO14001 Environmental Management System.
*Licence: FSC-C010438

To encourage our customers to reuse all packaging, we developed the RUBY market bag. These are made in India, from organic cotton, and were made in collaboration with Rethink, who are working to reduce our reliance on synthetic and non-biodegradable materials.

Instead of using plastic bubble wrap for sending fragile goods we use an alternative called Geami WrapPak. The Geami WrapPak is the combination of a patented die cut Kraft paper with a tissue interleaf paper. When dispensed it expands to a 3D honeycomb structure, protecting what’s inside. The design also helps reduce the need for plastic tape as it locks onto itself.
It is composed of FSC® certified* materials and is naturally biodegradable, compostable, and recyclable.
*FSC® mix credit SGSHK-COC-510021 / Supplier licence: FSC-C175966

RUBY paper store carry bags are made from 40-60% post-consumer waste (recycled paper materials) with 100% paper handles which makes them curb-side recyclable, biodegradable and compostable.
We charge for a carry bag, rather than giving them to customers, with this amount being donated to charity on your behalf. The intention is to build awareness of packaging use and encourage reusable over single-use bags.

We no longer attach spare buttons to our garments in plastic bags. Instead, for small buttons like on shirts and dresses, we sew these onto the care label in case customers lose these and need to sew on a new button.
For larger coat buttons, it’s not quite as easy to do this without obstructing the care label and fit, so if customers lose these buttons these can be requested from us by contacting us here.

The stickers that we use to seal our wrapping paper are made from uncoated paper and printed using soy-based inks. The adhesive uses chemicals that are deemed safe for the environment, and can be composted, both at home or commercially. The release liner on the sticker roll is curb-side recyclable after use.

We see our wrapping paper both as an opportunity to present our pieces in a beautiful way and to connect with our Toolbox objectives which includes education around sewing.
Our 2021/22 designed wrapping paper included a pattern for a pouch, face mask and book bag that could be made from fabric off-cuts available free in store.
Our wrapping paper and postcards are printed Eden Terrace, Auckland on paper sourced from FSC® approved forests*. Their latest press recycles the imaging oil that the press uses, meaning they rarely have to send out any oil into the waste stream.
*FSC® C12086
Fabric Index
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The information listed on this page is based on data from June 2024.
Product
The work and care we put into our product so that each piece is loved for a long time and by many.

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We believe in strengthening & educating our local community whether that be those in our team, Rubettes that frequent our stores or those we haven’t met yet.

Carbon Curious
Insights into our carbon footprint and the plan to reduce our emissions.

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