Hi bbs!
~ here she is, ~ with her semi-regular “state of the industry” yarn.
Alongside Kate Sylvester, I co-founded Fashion & Textiles NZ (formerly known as Mindful Fashion New Zealand) in 2019. The vision was: bring the industry together to make meaningful progress on sustainability, and take care of what describes as what Kate describes as “the endangered bird” nature of local manufacturing. We figured that, by working collaboratively, we would have more power to affect positive change than if we did it in silos.
Since then, FTNZ has grown to over 120 member businesses, spanning manufacturing, fabric, brand and retail. We we work in partnership with New Zealand’s universities, central and local Governments, international industry bodies, and corporate sponsors.
The excitement I feel at our overall membership growth is tempered by the businesses who have been part of FTNZ, but have closed. The reasons for each of these closures will be complex, and unique to each business owner. The obvious throughline however is whether you are a designer, manufacturer or textile agent, it is bloody tough to run a fashion business in New Zealand.
HOWEVER! As an organisation, FTNZ plows the fuck on doing the necessary work to unite the industry and champion a thriving future – for the industry and for Aotearoa.
A very cool thing happening next week is our Threads of Tomorrow summit. It will be a full day, focused on what a regenerative future could look like for our industry, and how we get there.
Students, large-scale retailers, lil’ brands and nerds. Anyone is welcome! Tickets are on sale via the link here. AND we are giving away a double pass! Head to our recent Instagram post + tag who you’d like to be your +1 in the comments below. We’ll randomly select a winner, and notify you of your victory via DM at 5pm on Friday 12th June.
Threads of Tomorrow Summit unites Aotearoa’s fibre-to-fashion leaders for one powerful day of innovation, insight, and game-changing collaboration.
You’d think that would be the natural end of the letter but, as a nerd myself, I need to give MORE information, say MORE things. How do you pithy people do it? Honestly the only reason why I call these letters “finished” is because I MUST go and do the next task on my list. Every time my sister asks me to write one of these letters she says “short and sweet”. EVERY TIME
So, for my fellow nerds, here she goes.
In 2025, FTNZ partnered with EY to publish our Threads of Tomorrow report (does that name sound familar to you? 😉). Major breakthrough for us!
For the first time, the value of fashion and textiles industry to New Zealand was quantified. It’s been foundational for setting FTNZ’s strategy, as well as being taken seriously by politicians and media (often, my experience before the release of this report was to be treated like a gaggle of silly girls).
Key insights (data from 2023):
- We contributed $7.8b to the economy, 1.9% of GDP.
- We employ 76,000 workers, with $4.4b paid in wages. This is 2.6% of New Zealand’s workforce – similar to the construction industry. The difference is that 78% of our workers are female.
- We lead the way in circular economy models, and make a strong creative, cultural and environmental contribution to New Zealand.
FTNZ’s current work programme is as tight as possible while addressing the breadth of the industry. This is not easy because it is necessarily made up of many threads: creative, technological innovation (things like fibre and end of life repurposing), manufacturing, workforce skills development, and sustainability. It’s our job to set the strategy that weaves all of these components together so that as an industry, we thrive.
Two pieces of work that are dear to my heart:
Future of Fibre Aotearoa
Unlocking value from New Zealand’s fibre ecosystem
A multi-year initiative to identify and accelerate high-value opportunities for New Zealand fibre, strengthening connections from raw material through to market-ready products.
Future of Manufacturing Aotearoa
Building a resilient, future-ready industry
Developing a national strategy for apparel and textile manufacturing, focused on strengthening local capability, supporting innovation, and unlocking economic opportunity.
Our incredible CE is Jacinta FitzGerald, who has been part of the project since the beginning, and our board is made up of people who work in fashion and textiles or in sustainability and strategy.
I’m at about the 8 year mark of contributing to what at first maybe seemed like a hare-brained scheme, but has developed into something that I think enriches the industry, and our country.
Personally, I have been enriched by the friendships I have developed, and I have learned from this incredible collection of people.
It’s still a bloody grind. Jacinta’s workload is off the charts. Running a fashion business in New Zealand is tough – but at least you have a product to sell! We’re selling an idea for the future, that those who join us have to do work for!
But the thing is, this work is important. It needs to be done. A lightbulb moment for me in the early stages of setting FTNZ up was: if not me, then who?
To the large-scale retailers of New Zealand:
You are part of the fashion and textiles industry, and you have the means to join us – for the summit, and in the work FTNZ is doing.
Think of it like therapy: what you get out of it is directly linked to what you put into it.
To those who simply adore sounding off in the comments about how this or that brand should “do better”:
Use the summit (remember that double pass on offer!) to learn what doing better can mean in practice, and to deepen your understanding about the complexities clothing companies are wrestling with when making decisions.
To my wonderful peers who have made the decision to close:
Thank you for the energy you have put into FTNZ, and for the beautiful work you have contributed to New Zealand’s design story.
There is so much more to say! But I want to have some lunch before I meet up with De (our Creative Director), Ken (our Buying and Planning Director) and Maddy (our Product and Logistics Director) to go through how we’re tracking with the projects we have in work atm – one of my favourite meetings of the month! Who doesn’t love a good bro down on progress eh?
xx
With love,
Em
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