Em's Letter ~ Em's Lingerie Story 30.10.25

And, like a proud parent seeing their child off to uni for the first time, I am waving and crying and excited and nervous to see how it makes its own way in the world. Have I been the best parent I could be? Is that good enough? Should I have done more? Should I have done less?

Effectively, those questions are rhetorical. I have done what I have done, I did my bloody best, and now it’s time for these precious pieces to shine in their own right.

You lot hear me tap tap tapping about what I think about this and that as it is going on in the world. And you obviously see the pieces I make. But what I realised is I haven’t really talked to you about the way I think during the long and winding road of my design process.

Keen to take a lil trip through some of the sights on the road to making this collection of lingerie? Hop aboard!

THE ORIGINS

Late last year, I clocked that that I had been essentially building in bras to the dresses and tops I was designing because I couldn’t find a bra that I was happy to wear with them – especially when they had a low back.

Making built-in bust support that does the job across the 4-24 size range of Liam is COMPLEX, and I realised that I could solve the problem in a different way: make a bra that I was proud to see peeking out of the back of my top or dress.

I have what some might call a PLENTIFUL bosom, and so in the past, the options I have had for bras have been…limited in numbers, but aggressively large in…architectural framework? I wanted to have the option to wear something in my size (I wear an 18 in a Liam bra) that felt flirty.

And then I needed to consider the full Liam size range. How can I make a collection of pieces that will work across all of the different heights and circumferences of every person who sits within our size 4-24 range?

I chose to make three wireless bra options: low, medium and full support. Each has an underbust band that can adjust up to two sizes, giving a level of flex across the size range for wearers to choose the best size for them. This two-size-band-flex also means that you can adjust how your bra fits depending on how your body is vibing that day.

EARLY DESIGNS AND FITS

Because of the inherent level of detailing in lingerie, my standard front/back tracing template just wasn’t going to cut it! I needed side views! Low/medium/high cut standards! A marker where the “side seam” would be! So, while on holiday at the Whatipu Lodge last January, I created my new tracing master. Honestly if I don’t have these pieces of paper things really fall apart.

Also over those summer holidays, I made the first pattern and sample for our knicker block. I went right back to my roots: on the floor, using whatever paper I could find to make the pattern, tracing by puncturing holes in the pattern with a felt pen.

Here’s a lil sequence of development from that summer holiday floor to drawing design lines on the samples as I wore them, tweaking the pattern measurements through to the finished Frenchy Knicker that is now in store:

THE TEAM

I am lucky to have an incredibly strong team of people working with me to develop these pieces. In reality, the list is bloody long, but I wanted to shout out these people in particular:

Sian Roberts, Sarah Parker, Melanie Harvey, Kendall McCowatt, Georgia Edwards, Maddy Hobson. And of course, where would I be without Lou and De?

SECOND FITS

Once the initial fits were done in house, we sent the patterns up to our factory in China. Their fit samples were ready for me to collect when I was up in China last May. Let me tell you, many a video was taken in hotel bathroom mirrors to give fit notes back to Sian in New Zealand to then work with the factory to make the changes.

THE BRANDING

On a trip to Scotland in September last year, I purchased a length of tartan that is the design of the Irvine clan – my family on my grandfather’s side. I had a strong feeling that I wanted to bring this element of myself into the pieces I was going to make.

I knew it was important for the lingerie – bras in particular – to have a signature branded detailing. And at the same time I didn’t want to add a visual component that didn’t also serve a function. So, I took a component that is in all of the bras (the back O-ring) and through a lot of trial and error, coloured it the cobalt blue from the Irvine tartan.

THE COLLECTION NAME

I had been toying around with calling the collection Mary – after Mary Magdelene and Mother Mary – because I wanted to name the persistent dichotomy of what is expected of women and at the same time encourage wearers to choose who they want to be, how they want to feel, and who they want to wear their lingerie for at any given moment in time.

I went to an Irvine family reunion (synchronicity amirite) at the Grey Lynn Community Hall and when looking through old family photos, I came across a Mary Irvine (the sister of my great grandfather), and honestly the collection’s name was chosen for me.

(Can I just say, I took myself to a bar to finish writing this piece (it made me feel glamourous), and sitting at the table next to me are two women who are in their ~60s. They are drinking chardonnay and talking in detail about their recent sexual experiences. I am deeply trying not to listen, but also I am glowing with pride and joy that this conversation is happening.)

THE BOUDOIR

At RUBY HQ, we have a fit room that is, well, Pretty Private, but knowing the level of intimacy and vulnerability that comes with trying on lingerie, I wanted to make a space that was safely nestled away, while also feeling fun and warm and exciting. So, over a few months, we gradually “built” The Boudoir. This is where we do all of our fittings, sometimes hangout, and shoot some of our imagery.

THE BIG DEAL FIT TESTING

It was always obvious that we needed to fit and wear test our pieces out on as many people as possible, across our full size 4-24 range. In the end, it turned out to be 50 women over a six-month period. Here are some of the key things we learned:

One third either didn’t know, or were not wearing their correct bra size

Even when a bra has a centre back fastener, many do them up at the front and then swivel them around

There is a delicate balance between the fear, and the usefulness, of a tape measure

Band measurements typically are 10-20% smaller than their bust

measurement, with most sitting at 14-16%

Over the six months, body measurements naturally fluctuated by up to a size

Bras are a close second to shoes as the first thing they take off when they get home

Some like it tight, some like it loose, and some like it both ways

Who they were wearing their lingerie for depended on the day

NAMING THE PIECES

Look, who doesn’t love an icon? This collection has pieces named after Isabella Rosellini, Frenchy Facciano from Grease, Dolly Parton, Beverly Hills 90210, and of course, Mary.

OH, SHOOT!

Shoots are an incredible time where all of the different ideas that have been knocking around in my head are filtered and shaped, and together we create this unified visual expression of the work.

I am incredibly grateful to our core shoot team: Matt Hurley, Abigail Dellavo, Rae Sacha, Bianca Tolmie, Chante Langeveldt, Nancy Johnson Hunt, Abi Barnes, Skye Lovatt, Emma Harkness, Sophie Jones and Bella Farnham for helping me bring this vision to life.

MUSIC IS MEDICINE

Music, music – where would I be without music? I’ve made a playlist of some of the tunes that have been on repeat while making this collection.

Still here? Made it all the way to the end of my road trip? Congrats! And thank you!

And to you, you beautiful pieces of lingerie, it’s your time to shine my babies

X

Em